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I must remove my crank pulley, but we are having actually a hell of a time acquiring the cursed bolt off... It"s not reverse threaded, is it???My time belt snapped, which really really sucks... This auto was an alleged to it is in my day-to-day driver while ns was solving my Integra. Now I have two dead Hondas in mine garage.
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If the hasn"t come off prior to it may require end 600 ft-lbs to take it it off, in ~ my shop we have actually a 5 foot breaker bar we put on that (with a brace to keep the pully from turning), then i jump up and also down on the finish of the (160lbs), that usualy it s okay it off....
--Bobnova "89 2.0SI 4ws(309k miles), "76 Triumph TR7 FHC (63k miles) 24 year of experienced automotive experience, specializing in Honda/Toyota/Subaru.
We lastly got it off through a huge breaker bar with another cheater bar on the finish of it, and it still take it a most effort... We had to usage the rope in the cylinder trick to save the motor from turning, due to the fact that it simply over it is provided the clutch when I placed it in gear and also stood on the brakes. Ironically, we didn"t break anything until we moved to mine Integra and also tried to acquire it"s crank wheel off (and we pulled that off simply 10k miles and also a couple of months ago).Turns the end my valves are slightly bend though.
OKAY! ns KNOWSOMETHING, lmao, around this. I just did a time belt and water pump change on my S, us put nearly 200lbs that torque come it and also it wouldnt budge. You"l be better off doing a tripple-A tow to a shop and also pay 35$ to have it bring away off... I did.Take care
I bought a tool dubbed "big azz" channel locks. I usage them to hold the crank pully and also then just use a huge breaker bar and also 5ft cheater bar.This an approach is rather ghetto though due to the fact that you risk putting teeth marks into the pully.In the future ns think i will just go through a huge impact gun.
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Last time i pulled the crank pulley, we had to use some penetrating lubricant and let it seep in.. ~ that, the breaker bar we were using lastly made the bolt budge. To avoid the bolt indigenous siezing in future, you may want to put a small grease top top it, and likewise on the crank wheel itself (in the spline, or whatever).
It"s a 3 guy job. 1 male holds the flywheel through a big flat head driver wedged in there.1 man holds the socket and also cheater bar on the nutlast guy sits under puts his back versus a wall and pushes prefer hell v his legs on the bar, it will certainly break loosened right before you gain a hernia.And after it"s been turn off once, it isn"t that bad after that.
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It"s a 3 male job. 1 man holds the flywheel v a huge flat head screwdriver wedged in there.1 man holds the socket and also cheater bar ~ above the nutlast male sits down puts his back against a wall and pushes prefer hell through his legs on the bar, it will break loosened right before you get a hernia.And ~ it"s been off once, it isn"t that bad after that.
It can be a one male job if you usage the the rope in the cylinder trick... Revolve the crank therefore that among the pistons goes come the bottom, then begin sticking something like nylon rope with the spark plug hole (I provided an amp strength wire). Rotate the crank (always counter-clockwise) and also the piston will certainly come up and get stuck. You deserve to now bust the crank pulley bolt off v a big breaker bar. Once it"s off, just turn the crank clockwise a bit and pull the rope out.But make certain you"re valves for that cylinder space closed or you will damage them. Mine belt to be busted, therefore I simply rotated the cams come close the valves. Once I first heard about that technique, I believed it to be pretty half-assed, however I ended up there is no much choice or time and also it operated perfectly.
Weston....Hate to it is in a ache in the butt...but, your "rope in the cylinder" trick summary left the end one important part. Use just the #1 cylinder and also only once the valves space on the COMPRESSION up-stroke. ( every valves closed ) If you have rope in there during the EXHAUST up-stroke ( exhaust valves open) you could bend those stems. You deserve to tell the compression by the position of the rotor....when it"s aimed in ~ #1 it"s close to the height of the compression stroke.
Weston....Hate to it is in a pains in the butt...but, your "rope in the cylinder" trick description left the end one essential part. Use only the #1 cylinder and also only when the valves are on the COMPRESSION up-stroke. ( every valves closed ) If you have rope in there during the EXHAUST up-stroke ( exhaust valves open) you could bend those stems. You can tell the compression through the place of the rotor....when it"s aimed in ~ #1 it"s close to the top of the compression stroke.
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I have seen this finish in a bending rod top top a chevy 350, incredibly rare I would suppose, however not precious the risk to me.
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