JoinedApr 6, 2011Messages165Reaction score0Points0Vehicle Year'89Make / ModelFordEngine Size2.9LTransmissionManual

You are watching: 2000 ford ranger oil pan gasket replacement

Hey, ns made a post about this the various other day in ~ the end of a really lengthy thread and didn"t really get any responses. Anyway, I have the oil pan dropped a tiny right now, however I can"t obtain it every the way off. Ns searched around, but didn"t find anything conclusive around whether or not they were able to acquire the pan totally off and do it ideal or they had to half-ass it through it in ar (it seems like I would need several much more inches to get it roughly the oil pump). I already have that jacked increase a few inches, but the top intake is hitting up versus the firewall. Ns guess my concern is, is it precious it to take it the upper intake turn off or will certainly it just hit something else? The way my luck runs is I"ll take that upper intake appart and also then miscellaneous else will be holding it back. It likewise looks like among the power steering hoses isn"t going come stretch lot more. Ns can gain it together is, but would really choose to acquire it turn off of there so I have the right to clean out the pan and oil pump screen real well. TIA.
JoinedApr 6, 2011Messages165Reaction score0Points0Vehicle Year'89Make / ModelFordEngine Size2.9LTransmissionManual
Just an update: I had to remove the top intake and the distributor cap to jack the motor up enough. I likewise jacked the infection up a little too (not certain if this was necessary, just discovered it easier). One point I had trouble v was the rear component of the gasket where it goes right into the block (U-shaped part). Piece of the old gasket where stuck increase in the block and also I had actually to use a tiny 6" lengthy drill little to acquire it out. I forget the exact size bit, yet it was the next size smaller than 1/8". Getting that part of the gasket the end was really a waste for me anyway since I ended up simply cutting the height pieces of that U part off the the new gasket (I could not get them to get in the block to save my life!) and skirting a bunch of gasket maker up in there. I provided gasket device on both sides BTW to prevent leaks in the future. One reminder I have after doing that is put the gasket top top the block quite than make the efforts to placed it on the pan. I put it ~ above the pan and tried to work-related the pan earlier on, but the rear component of the gasket maintained on coming off (the fit in between the bell housing and also the block is tight). I also readjusted the prior seal while i was in ~ it because I to be 90% certain that to be leaking too. I have a pair of pointers because that you guys because I came across a pair of threads whereby it seemed favor others were having actually much trouble. It to be a very simple task if you eliminate the radiator and also fan (fan is reverse thread BTW). The isn"t vital to eliminate the timing chain cover like I assumed it might be. When you placed the equipment puller ~ above the pulley, simply leave the bolt in (just a couple of threads) and additionally leave the 3/4" head shallow socket top top the bolt head. It gives the equipment puller something to press on while maintaining it centered. Friend can also put a set of vise grips on your socket to save the bolt from cranking under while you crank the gear puller (it will certainly stop when it access time the among the equipment puller arms). The old seal pried ideal out and also to put the new seal ago in, I simply used the same bolt and a 38MM shallow socket (was nearly the precise size of the seal, but YMMV because the exterior diameter different from brand come brand). Great luck!
(I do miss out on the mileage.)
HalffastNew Member
JoinedMar 2, 2011Messages6Reaction score0Points0Vehicle Year1986Make / ModelFordTransmissionManual
May 20, 2011
Its been years, yet pan come off easilyI pulled the oil pan off an 86 2.9L engine years back. All ns remember I had actually to execute was traction the bolts out of the motor mounts, as with doing a Chevy, and jack up the engine, stuff hardwood blocks in there wherein they wouldn"t slip the end --- an extremely important for hands and also fingers!, to organize the engine block increase as much as it would certainly go, there is no doing anything to the optimal of the engine. Climate the pan came best off. Ns was worried about the oil pump walk bad, yet it was prefer brand new at 60K. The problem was the dam gauge.I just remembered, my Ranger has heavy duty manufacturing facility suspension with 5 leaf rear springs and also it does sit higher than other Rangers, for this reason this could be why ns didn"t have much problem removing the pan.
JoinedApr 6, 2011Messages165Reaction score0Points0Vehicle Year'89Make / ModelFordEngine Size2.9LTransmissionManual
I don"t think that all the suspension elevator in the people would aid because of where that damn cross member or whatever you desire to contact it is located (it wraps right roughly the oil pan, at least on a "89 4x4). If you used blocks that wood, wherein did girlfriend prop it up at? ns looked every around and also couldn"t uncover a kind spot come lift it or assistance it besides the bell housing without prevent my point of egress (I traction the pan the end the front). That wasn"t that easy for me either and the motor and also transmission had actually to creep forward a bit in order for it come come up high enough. Ns wouldn"t want to need to do it again, that"s for sure. If the motor is in questionable shape, ns would just wait until a rebuild or replacement is in order to carry out an oil pan gasket or oil pump replacement.EDIT: I simply noticed that yours is a 2X4. That renders all the distinction in the world.
Last edited: may 20, 2011

Steeda04SVTNew Member
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JoinedFeb 25, 2011Messages415Reaction score3Points0Age37LocationClovis, NM/Cannon AFB, NMVehicle Year1997Make / ModelFordEngine Size4.0TransmissionAutomatic