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You are watching: 1990 chevy 1500 voltage regulator location

I have a 1991 chevy 1500 4X4 350. I was control it and the battery light came on so i confirm the voltage and also the alternator was not placing out. So later on i got earlier in my truck and started that up and the alternator to be charging again. Once im steering every when in a if the headlights will gain real bright and the battery light will certainly come on together if its charging real high, this happens because that a few seconds and returns also normal..... Can it be my alternator? go the alternator have actually an interior voltage regulator???
Well it"s a one cable alternator, correct? If for this reason I would certainly think it needs to be internal. I"m functioning on a 1990 and also his setup appears to have a comparable problem. The battery and alternator have both to be checked and neither space bad. And also since it"s a pretty straightforward system, over there aren"t too numerous things that deserve to go bad. I"m just guessing yours is a one wire alternator though.
Yes, that does have actually a voltage regulator. But the brushes might be going and also just hit and also miss. Or the stator can have a negative spot.Since you"ve experiment the battery, it"s a for sure bet you require an alternator. Simply be certain to check out all your connections an initial to make sure there is no corrosion or loose wires/connections.
I"m having a similar problem I lose voltage for a couple of minutes and also then it return to normal. Obtained so bad i had to adjust the alternator and batteryand the module go . Now the van runs fine I thought I was all collection when 2 days later on i am shedding voltage again . It is steering me nuts due to the fact that its intermitanti added grounds come body,frame motor. If anyone has any type of ideas i would appreciate that thanks..

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John, This sounds prefer a floating floor problem. Check your relations where you placed the battery an unfavorable to the engine & engine ground come frame. No repaint or rust here, it must be clean shiny metal to steel contact. If batt to frame & structure to engine grounds are great & the alternator ground cable you included is additionally good, then examine your engine to body grounds in ~ the firewall.
1988 Chevy C-3500 2wd (no pic)350 c.i. 5.7 L share Block, 4 Bolt MainsL-31 Vortec Heads, Edelbrock electronic came & Intake, Holley 650, Flowtech Headers, Magnaflow exh.Jet trans 700R4, B&M Ratchet, 4:10 gears, 3" susp. Elevator kit "shadetree"No rev limiter, No rate limiter lol
I have a 91 350 also.Had a comparable problem critical summer.The cicuit itself is quite simple....If you have used a Volt meter and confirmed that voltage is best (when on) at the alternator (~14v), examine the voltage ago at the battery, and see if you read the very same assumption: v is perhaps not.Then if you likewise have an ohm meter, check resistance between the 2 points, alternator and also batter terminal.Should be little to no resistance.....if over there is resistance, then you have actually a bad wire.What resolved my problem, was acquisition the wiring harness that runs top top the passenger next of the engine block and pulling it in the direction of the firewall and also putting a zip-tie in ar to host it there. So ns probably have actually a poor wire and also just am also lazy to deal with changing it out.
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